September 23rd Announced the Return of Monster Surf…
It’s official, summer is over… This became extremely clear to me when I arrived at Ho’okipa only to see super messy double over head plus sets coming in and closing out the whole bay. I decided I wasn’t quite ready to destroy all my new equipment that literally came in the day before. Besides I needed to get acquainted with my new board and sails before I threw us all out in the deep end. After taking a few snaps of the conditions I headed on down the coast to Kanaha. Though it was breaking huge down there as well, the conditions were super friendly. The waves were softer and easier to ride with no rocks to worry about. The new gear felt good. There’s some nice power in the new combats and my board was turning on a dime. I missed the last north shore waves earlier in the month as we were too busy swimming with dolphins on another island, so it was exciting to get out in the bigger swells again for the first time this season.
Other than saying goodbye to summer and hello to winter these last few days… The rest of the month actually started off really slow with flat summer conditions drawing out seemingly endlessly. This gave me plenty of time for reading as usually after a day of windsurfing I’m so tired I just fall asleep after the first few paragraphs. With plenty of energy after maybe a swim, surf or a run, I read some pretty cool books:
The Sex Lives of Cannibals had me laughing out loud and I learnt a little more about Tarawa and the Republic of Kiribati, islands I knew nothing about. I’ve been intrigued and riveted by Laurence Bergreen’s, Over the Edge of the World, Magellan’s terrifying circumnavigation of the globe. Makes my own backpack travel adventure seem like a walk to the local corner store. I’ve also enjoyed, A Short History of Nearly Everything by Bill Bryson…. Guess it’s true,” Adventure might hurt you but monotony will kill you.” Though how anyone could ever get bored on this planet in this life journey is beyond me. Just being alive on this random planet, in this random solar system surrounded by the wonder of nature is practically an acid trip in itself.
The other day Mike Waltze gave us his latest dvd to view, That First Glide. It was interesting to learn more about the history of Stand Up Paddling and to be reminded that surfing is for fun and not only about the coolest dudes on the water. It also reminded me how fortunate we are to live in Hawaii the birth place of surfing, SUP and other water sports. We’re surrounded by such awesome conditions and dynamic people creating new and interesting ways to enjoy water time.
Check out the trailer: