Posted on Apr 27, 2014

IMG_3586We are water logged in Haiku. The rain beats up against the house and the wind tears at our dreams. My gear swims in the back of my truck and the damp seeps into everything.IMG_7520

Waking spring time winds feels something like waking up a sleeping fire breathing dragon. It has come back with such force, howling to the moon kind of gales,  storming through the islands of Hawaii.


This month finds me energized and focused. Active until exhaustion. It’s time for weeding out the garden so the good stuff can blossom in multiple areas of my life.


April is also photo shoot month for all the 2015 JP-AUSTRALIA/PRYDE gear. It’s pre-dawn adventures to get early morning SUP shots with the first rays of light. Sunset missions…Looking through stain glass waves and rainbow draped West Maui Mountains as we surf deep into the golden shine. As the weeks roll on the photo shoot kicks up a relentless pace like wild horses spooked across the country side. It should be a wrap except the weather doesn’t feel the need to offer up the goods. Actually she is down right contrary… There’s more then enough wind and there are waves but the sun has been muffled between the sheets of rain.


…And so the weather has changed. It’s mood completely different. Like a switch that gets turned on and off. Like a withdrawing warm hand. Like the void of space where once things seemed solid. I guess getting used to change is all part of it. Nothing can control the temperaments of weather or man. Somedays you are warmed by soft rays and sweet breezes that lull you into a sense of smooth sailing only to be side swiped by a cool slap of an angry gust or a lull so great you fall off backwards. I guess that’s what happens when we are not really paying attention and reading the signs.IMG_3592

But, but, but… I love the word chimera. I believe that even they are possible even though it’s exact definition supports the opposite- “… A thing that is hoped or wished for but in fact is illusory to achieve.” I’m a firm believer in achieving the impossible. In even achieving a chimera… foto-220130421TIP_1DM4A_3199_LR

When things are right there is flow. Flow in every day life tends to indicate you are on the right path. Flowing relationships grow and double. Flow in sports is when all the the training and muscle memory just snaps together in perfect unity with what is needed by the body for every given second of reaction needed for all the varying variables. Thus creating perfect physical expression amongst the elements. Just watching any of the pros at Ho’okipa in motion, is truly wave art and seamless flow. The mind is a creative force, and when it’s in flow, it’s amazing what artists can tap into and pull out of themselves…


Flow is being perfectly present in the moment. Where you are so completely open and in acute exchange with a loved one, a physical movement, a creative process. A deeply concentrated moment. It’s your undivided attention and complete immersion in a task, complete absorption in beauty, nature, the outdoors or even the meditation of our inners selves. It’s a place of unity. Perfect rhythm. Like walking into sunsets, a book, a painting, a loved one…


Being guarded, fearful and not letting go of mind control-Kills flow… On and off the water. It pretty much sweeps over the entirety of our lives, from personal relationships, to our performance on the water, our creative endeavors right down to communication. Resistance is the enemy of flow.

Flow is being in  a state of openness, receptive and forward moving. It’s breaking down the barriers. It’s that flash of perfection, freely moving energy and ease. I guess it’s where the magic arises…

So I say to myself….Why settle for less, when the limits are your own inventions?