I enter the sea to dive into myself and a calm focus, a meditation of a sort. Outside world troubles and human tedium are left at the shore like shedding soiled clothes and skinny dipping into a deep breath of personal freedom.
Kona wind directions have been the constant for that last two months. It’s port tack Lanes’ sailing and epic surfing conditions. In the winter I opt to surf rather than windsurf as it’s rare to get perfect glassy days on Maui. This is the windy island- A place where most surfers grumble about the trades, while windsurfers and kiters rejoice to the sound of rustling palms.
The days have been passing in a loop similar to this weekend. Endless solid 6 foot (hawaiian) sessions. Dropping into bombs down at Kanaha on my new 8.6 JP-AUSTRALIA surf sup board, and enjoying endless turns on massive walls of water that seem to disappear straight between the West Maui’s and into the heart of Iao Valley.
Hookipa has been ‘blissed out’ happy fun. Wherever you look along the north shore the waves are peeling in like a dream, the sky is blue against a perfect volcanically carved mountain backdrop.
The other day I was surfing a quiet venue on the north shore- Doing what I like best- Going surfing at certain times to get away from the crowds. It was a day when the ocean was turning with weight to its size. Solid. Which always weeds out the crowds. I got pounded by some pretty heavy sets a few times that day. I’m still sporting some good size bruises from a lovers embrace over the falls with my sup board.
That same day, I turned around and a famous hollywood actor was paddling out past me and into the the thick of the game. I watched him, curious to see how he would do. He paddled into a decent sized wave and held his own amongst the amphibian like watermen who live on Maui and breath sea water like air. The mer-people of our world. Islanders who have chosen ocean lifestyle and vitamin sea injections over fame and solid work hours.
What struck me- was that this actor had his freedom here. No one bothered him. He was in the mix just like everyone else and he was just as hungry in the line up to get his turn on a wave and get his fix- the rush. He was just another surfer addicted to the ocean and finding his own perfect moments.
I have never been particularly wowed by famous individuals- As they are just people with fun jobs and big pay cheques. But I do admire someone who just gets on with it. I imagine being famous could feel like being stuck permanently on the inside of five star hotel with all the luxurious benefits that money can buy, sitting by the pool, catered to in privacy and totally removed from everyday life of the surrounding environment- Maybe bored to freaking tears (I would be anyways)- I would want to jump the fence and be on the other side- In the thick of the places, people, restaurants, cafes etc…
Besides the ocean and its waves are something that no one can own, hog or buy. If you want the waves you have to go out there and share them.
Maui is that place where different walks of life coexist without much fuss. Surrounded by the pacific ocean and all its gems. A place everyone is invited to live a dreamy existence. It’s a priceless lifestyle with far more value than the weight of gold.
Out of the water I’ve been enjoy reading, The Social Animal by David Brooks..
… And contemplating the eternity of behavior- ha ha
“The information that comes from deep in the evolutionary past, we call genetics. the information revealed thousands of years ago, we call religion. The information passed along from hundreds of years ago, we call culture. The information passed along from decades ago, we call family, and the information offered year, month, days or hours ago, we call education and advice.
“All this information flows form the dead to the unborn.” A river of informations passed down and through us since the dawn of time! This book is fascinating if you are interested in how our brains and minds are actually triggered by connection with each other. The long development of human intelligent, animal programming and why the smartest thing we can do is listen to our emotional intelligence.
As the quote from the book states, we spend our lives gearing up for the work force but very little time is spent on every day essential living skills.
“Children are coached on how to jump through a thousand scholastic hoops. Yet by far the most important decisions they will make are about whom to marry and whom to befriend, what to love and what to despise, and how to control impulses. On these matters, they are almost entirely on their own.”
A good read.