Posted on Jan 25, 2014


It’s been “The Endless Winter”. January has been on fire. Waves pumping. Jaws never stops going off and the wind walked out stage left. It’s been some of the best surf I’ve ever seen. An epic winter. A few weeks ago I got slammed by a big set and got the surf board ripped out of my hands.  Unfortunately it ripped my shoulder muscle before I had a chance to let go. My arm fell limp to the side of my body and I couldn’t even move it a couple inches in any direction. I thought I was out for the whole winter but I’m pleased that it’s getting better much quicker than expected. Paddle surfing may not be on the menu yet,  but at least I can still surf big days at Kanaha on a SUP. Paddling SUPs out to the whales and hearing the intensity of their breath as they crack the surfaces to play with their new borns is an intense experience. So grateful they invented that sport. We’ve also been running all over the island. Down to Jaws to check out the action, upcountry, south side beaches and through the trees of Poli Poli. It’s fantastic to do trail runs up near the top of Haleakala where it was so cold my nose iced up and I needed a cashmere sweater to stay warm. It’s a canadian girls kind of comfort… Cedars, Pine needles, chilly, foggy and crisp fresh air. Sunsets from the top of Maui’s world is beyond description. Running, running, running all over, from the ocean to the sky with spectacular bird’s eye views of the island. It’s a kind of shot of youth. There’s nothing more free feeling than just running. So though my injury has taken me off the water it has thrown me on land and into the secrets and mysterious beauties of Maui’s hidden folds… I’m grateful for these beyond perfect moments, they will stay with me forever. I’ve actually only sailed one day this month and that was at Lanes. I haven’t’ sailed port tack in a decade and with the state of my arm, I took it really easy. Big air was out of the question, but I still had a fantastic time sailing and I enjoyed watching the boys rip it up around me. Naish was killing it. The ocean is alive this year with storms, heavy weather and big waves hitting the land all over the world. It’s been a full on winter with some of the biggest surf of the decade hitting our shores and maybe the century kind of swell crashing on europe’s door. There’s been some serious cuddling up under the covers as Kona storms tear at the house with rains that wake you out of a deep sleep. Some mornings I find myself with every layer of clothing I own on, sock, sweatpants over shorts, sweaters over sweaters over t-shirts, while heating my hands and face up over a strong cup of steaming coffee. Yes, we actually feel the chill here sometimes, but I like it. It’s all part of the island’s charm. It’s the kind of weather that makes it easy to get work done or get a painting going. Even while injured I never feel like there are enough hours in a day to do all the amazing things there are to do in one day, on the water, up the mountains, with loved ones’… An island where you can’t help but live every second of your life to the fullest…

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