Posted on Dec 25, 2011

MELE KALIKIMAKA

 

… And what a Very Merry Christmas it has been on Maui. We’ve had weeks on end of no wind and insane surf. It’s been a slew of fabulous Xmas gatherings and surf sessions. It’s a locals dream. Though if you’re here purely for windsurfing maybe not so much.  The beauty of doing more then just one water sport is that you’re always satisfied regardless of the conditions. This morning we woke up to the sounds of silence (so early the rooster’s calls had not yet started) and the twinklng of xmas lights. Gifts were shared and nummy morning treats were savored before we headed down to the beach. We were greeted with pefectly ribbon wrapped waves peeling into our Ho’okipa beach park. The wind was breathless as well as the scenery and the waves were bigger than we expected…

 

 

I’ve been enjoying the bigger surf….. And, “perhaps” I thought, “the waves are a tad bigger then what I’m used to but I should be able to handle”.  Slightly out of my comfort zone I headed out. Only after paddling for 20 minutes out through the “channel” did I start to think, “hmmmm maybe I’m more than just a tad outside of my comfort zone”. No worries I’ll just head out and catch one and all will be grand. Reason did try and plead with the ego, but paddle on I did. Once I’m out in the line up I realize…. wow there are some fair sized sets (15 to 18 foot faces) coming through and my heart starts doing a version of The Little Drummer Boy on speed…..

 

 

I start paddling more inside to catch one in only to find myself in the full impact zone when a monster set comes through ( Just look at the above photo to see how small the people look on the cliff in comparison to the waves) I get drilled and my leash snaps. Some kind of sensation swimming in big moving waters and currents rushing like rapid rivers. I looked around at the beautiful clear skies, folding breakers seemingly the size of houses, the West Maui Mountains in perfect focus and the surrounding water like a looking glass with turtles duck diving and popping up all around me. It was still a perfect day even though my favorite Al Merrick was nowhere in sight and I had a long swim back to the beach…

 

 

Happily a kind surfer found my board and paddled it back to the beach for me. Today the ocean spat me out. No worries. Gus got out and enjoyed the steep NNE waves and Reef and I scored some perfect ankle biters. Christmas has been a blast with close friends and family and the most important thing is Reef is full of laughter as small waves wash over him in the tide pools lying on his stomach catching baby waves…

 

Happy Holidays!